How to Replicate the Diode Experiments

I know for fact that the passive component, the diode, produces a measurable DC voltage when left undisturbed inside metal shielding for a sufficient period of time. At the time of this writing, here is my recommendation -->

The circuit is very simple. Leave the gain resistor pins (pins 1 and 16) open to provide a gain of one. Do not connect anything to the guard pins because your INA116PA will not be on a PCB. Rather your INA116PA will be held in the air by the wires soldered to the pins. An air op-amp offers the lowest possible input bias current. The DC input bias current produced by my INA116PA was measured at 2.2 fA (2.2E-15 amps). Pins 3 and connect are the input pins that you will connect to the diode. Get a quantity of two "4 AAA battery holders" for the INA116PA voltage source. For my next electrometer, I will be using just two "3 AAA battery holders," which will provide even less bias current. Less bias current is an over kill, but the only reason I'm switching to just three batteries per polarity is to minimize the size so that I can place even more diodes in my new setup. In your case, you'll probably be testing just one diode, so it's best to get 4 AAA batteries per polarity since I do not know if the INA116PA will work well enough on 4.5 volts. The INA116PA datahsheet claims that 4.5 volts is fine. I'll be using new Alkaline batteries, which are over 1.5 volts each, so it will be over 4.5 volts. Also, the INA116PA will most likely work well below 4.5 volts per polarity. I get the AAA battery holders at Radio Shack. So, connect the negative voltage from your batteries to pin 8, and the positive voltage to pin 13. Connect pin 9 (Ref. pin) directly to ground. Pin 11 is the output, which you can connect to a common voltage meter. Here's a diagram -->

The above electrometer input is left floating. I have tested the electrometer both ways, floating, and also with grounding resistors connected to a input wire. It works just perfectly fine on the diodes. You will only need to use the electrometer for a few minutes per testing period. If you're testing multiple diodes, then it is recommended that you ground the input pins to ground in between each diode test.

The electrometer and batteries are inside a metal shield. I use a large metal shield made by Hammond. I have conducted various tests with the batteries inside and outside the Hammond shield. It makes no difference.

Twist the input wires and route then threw a small pin hole in the Hammond shield, which will go to the DMM (voltage meter). The DMM is outside the Hammond shield. The entire setup, including the DMM is then placed inside a second layer shield. You can use a large microwave oven.

To turn on the DMM and electrometer, you can use either mercury tilt switches or simple mechanical contact switches. I have used waxed dental floss string to go through a pin hole in the microwave oven to the meter that will turn the switch on/off by slightly pulling the string. My new setup will use 1 Lbs. fishing line string instead. Also, I will be making my own contact switches this time, which are rather easy to make simply by placing a short thick copper wire (~ 10 to 18 gauge) that privets up and down, one end tied to the fishing line that goes through pin holes of both shields that is connected to a small weight. The weight will be enough to pull the copper wire up to make contact to another copper wire. When the weight list slightly lifted up and placed on a small ledge, the copper wire goes down and creates an open-circuit. This creates a very nice simple copper switch that will produce absolutely no measurable effects on the measurements.

For the new setup, this time I will use the aforementioned simple contact switches instead of mercury tilt switches because the mercury tilt switches will be used for the electrometer input stage. There will be four mercury tilt switches. When the entire setup is slightly tilted *forward*, two of the mercury switches will be on. When the entire setup is slightly tilted *backwards*, two of the mercury switches will be on. While the setup is tilted forward, the electrometer will be connected to a diode in *forward polarity direction*. While the setup is tilted backwards, the electrometer will be connected to a diode in *reverse polarity direction*. IOW, this will allow me to reverse the diodes connection across the electrometers input. So if the measured DC voltage is say 350 mV while tilted forward, it should be -350 mV while titled backwards. Of course you have take into account the electrometers *output* voltage offset. Note that the electrometers output offset has nothing to do with a voltage offset on the electrometers input stage. So don't forget to subtract the output offset. Or if you wish, you can add a second stage op-amp that does the offset for you, but such pretty stuff is completely unnecessary until the final stage when you demonstrate to a notable scientist.

The next step consists of the diode. Presently I would recommend the 1N4148WS diode made by MULTICOMP. This is a 1N4148 diode that has a solid casing, not glass. The problem with glass casings is that you have to work inside a dark room since the light will shine on the diodes junction, and thus disturb the diode. I would recommend soldering 50 of such 1N4148WS diodes in-series. Unfortunately this will highly disturb the diodes-- TED effect. Place the disturbed diode array inside the Hammond shield and solder/connect it to the electrometer input. Close the lid on both shields, and let it sit. Since there is no guarantee how disturbed the diode array will be, I would recommend letting it sit undisturbed for at least one month. Just to be on the safe side, do not place the setup near a wi-fi setup, although I have done extensive testing by placing my entire diode testing setup directly near a new high power wi-fi which clearly showed no change in the measured DC voltage. It is recommended that the diode array temperature not rapidly fluctuate, as this can disturb the diode state-- TED effect. After a month or two, turn on the electrometer, let it be for a few minutes to stabilize, then tilt the entire setup to connect the electrometer to the diode, look through the microwave oven metal mesh grid to see the DMM reading, quickly write down the DC voltage, tilt the setup the other direction to reverse the mercury tilt switches, write down the DC voltage. There's no need to subtract the electrometers offset, as the DC voltage is equal (Vp - Vn) / 2, where Vp is the voltage measured when tilted forward, and Vn is the voltage measured when tilted backwards. Then tilt the entire setup to neutral position to disconnect the diode array to the electrometer, and quickly turn off the DMM and electrometer. Take a measurement about once every two days.

Please contact me for further details and on-going advice.

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